The excitement of New York Fashion Week wrapped up last week, but before we spew out a rambunctious persiflage of all the intriguing new looks, let us first prepare our mindsets – and our closets – for a more pressing matter: the coming fall and winter seasons.
The nearing of the fashion new year that is the grand autumn usually brings about musings on cozy and rugged plaids, knits, lush textures, chic and weathered boots and other such characteristic cold weather accompaniments. These quintessential items and also classically cherished looks were certainly revamped by designers for this fall and winter season.
To remain orderly, I have broken down the season into families of recognition. Also, because it is so very enjoyable, the groups are all endowed with alliterated adjectives (like that, for instance). The big categories include fun furs, the bohemian blend-up, powerful plaids, sleeked-up sporty, a stimulated sixties and novel knitwear.
To begin with the bohemian creations, these are fully-fledged updates on the beautifully rich expressions we love. This season, Japanese tradition is mixed with Native American geometric prints. The full looks are harmoniously pulled together regardless of their eclectic, worldly basis and every texture, construction, length and color palette is taken up to present carefree gypsy goddesses. Design houses like Marni, Etro, Anna Sui, Mary Katrantzou and Valentino are bringing out these vintage-inspired blended personas in glorious prints and earth-tones. These looks are fabulous when completed with some over-the-knee boots like the brocade variety at Versace and fur accents like the colorful Anna Sui runway offerings.
On the subject of that last bit, the fur looks for fall and winter were full of fantasy, exciting color and fun textures and styles. Just when we thought designers were moving away from fur incorporations, the textile reenters the scene with a vengeance! This can be seen all over in more than just trimming. Looks from Alexander McQueen were based on fairy tales and coats were humongous, shaggy and hooded. Models looked like glorious cave-people hiding from evil witches and forest-dwelling monsters and trolls. Consuelo Castiglioni embraced nomadic themes with feathers, furs and long tunics, and a rock ‘n’ roll attitude was embraced by Roberto Cavalli’s fall woman. Shapes were dramatic and often took-over the entire runway looks, leaving only a glimpse of the hem of a dress or the brim of a boot.
Knits for fall are novel in their size, length and cut. Long and lean knits were all over the runways for designers like Céline and Calvin Klein with oversized proportions and exaggerated sleeve lengths. In autumnal shades, oversized knitwear was paired with combat boots. The Row featured long and huge charcoal turtlenecks with skirts appearing like inverted sweaters trailing along above heavy black loafers. Acne Studios showed us elongated sleeves and organic turtleneck white dress worn to the mid shin with sporty black, square front shoes with white base platforms. Marc Jacobs thoughtfully presented daytime full knitwear looks.
The sporty-sleek looks we have been enjoying are being reiterated this fall. The looks are luxe and chic. Designers like Reed Krakoff and Balenciaga have embraced this street-style influence in their runways to show more athletic garments with their own touch like sequins, tweed and even PVC. Tom Ford showed off shiny football jersey-style dresses with the number 61 as a homage to the year of the designer’s birth. Miuccia Prada presented ski jackets and miniskirts in pastels for Miu Miu. Chanel’s fall show was set against a supermarket backdrop. Karl Lagerfeld’s fall woman wore sneakers, baggy pants and large, colorful overcoats for a casual-glamorous presentation.
The ‘60s are back in full swing! My apologies, for that cheesy pun was too appropriate to pass up! However, although they are back on the fashion scene, they have been stimulated with modernized twists. Shift dresses, kitschy prints and go-go boots can be seen with embellishments like metallics and jacquard. House of Holland’s fall show gave the party girl of today a jolt of sixties glam with bold patterns and miniskirts. Dean and Dan Caten set the DSquared runway show set at a sixties era psych ward and shoed mod-inspired shapes. Hedi Slimane of Saint Laurent softened their usual edge with a presentation with impeccable sixties eye-makeup on models and toned-down rock-and-roll style with mini skirts paired with silver knee-high boots and more luxe embellishments. A favorite of the revamped sixties looks was Mary Katrantzou’s printed dress with colorful flapping sections traveling around the skirt with a scalloped hem formed by graphic circular cut-outs worn. The look was worn with oxford ankle boots in burgundy and an elegant minaudière.
Lastly, the notable plaid expressions on the fall and winter runways were certainly diverse and impactful. Labels have both glammed up this grungy print and dressed it down. Isabel Marant showed us plaid accompanying her tomboy-chic lineup. Vera Wang’s plaid looks were smartly understated in darkly romantic outfits in soft shapes with large, gothic insect images on garments. Looks at Salvatore Ferragamo embraced the plaid trend by juxtaposing dark patterns over drapey knee-length skirts with boots.
Fall and winter weather is swiftly swooping to our doorstep. The thrill of new fashions and modernizations of beloved favorites will make the season come alive. Shop with a keen eye, have fun picking favorite runway looks for inspiration and enjoy an autumnal revival of your look and your closet.